| Step | What to do | What it tells you |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Listen | Run each function to relief, then combined moves | Squeal/whine that fades warm = suction leak or aeration; grinding = bearing/pistons inside |
| 2. Look | Tank oil: foam, milky color, glitter; cycle times vs before | Foam = air in suction; milky = water (coolers/seals); glitter = internal damage. Already see milky oil? Check the water-in-oil guide |
| 3. Test | Gauge at main test port: standby pressure, max pressure at relief, case-drain flow | Can't reach spec at relief = wear or relief valve; case drain above ~5–8% of pump flow = internal leakage, pump worn |
| 4. Eliminate | Pilot pressure, relief valve setting, throttle/suction strainer, coupling | A stuck relief or weak pilot mimics a dead pump — the most common "wrong pump replaced" story |
For the classic warning signs overview, see 7 signs your hydraulic pump is failing. When the pump is confirmed, we stock rotating groups, piston assemblies, liners, valve plates, drive shafts and seal kits for Kawasaki, Kayaba, Rexroth and Nachi pumps on CAT, Komatsu, Hitachi, Volvo and more — search by pump model.
If the housing and shaft are sound, a rotating-group rebuild with new parts is usually a fraction of a new pump. Cracked housing or scored shaft → replace.
Partly — send the pump nameplate photo and the leaked part photo; we can identify the exact pump model and quote the internals.
Kawasaki K3V/K5V, Kayaba, Rexroth A8VO/A11VO, Nachi and more. Send the nameplate number and we confirm fitment.
Send the pump nameplate photo — we quote rotating group, seals or full parts set.